Techniques: 1. A graded wash shows a transition from light to dark. Start by painting dark—load up your brush with the most pigment—and then drag it across the paper. On the next pass, add less pigment on your brush and swipe it across the paper so that it slightly overlaps with your first line. The two groups will begin to converge and eventually look like one. Repeat this process, adding less and less pigment, until you’ve got your desired tonal range.
2. Dry brush is just as it sounds; take a dry (or mostly dry) brush and dip it into your paint. Afterward, spread it over a dry piece of paper. The result will be a highly textured mark that’s great for implying fur or hair.
3. The wet-on-wet approach showcases the best quality of watercolor paint—its ability to create beautiful ethereal washes. To produce this technique, simply wet part of the paper with your brush. (You can use either water or a little pigment.) Then, dip your brush into another color and lightly dot it on the wet area and watch as the pigment feathers.
4. Masking tape acts as a resist for watercolor. Apply this material in places where you don’t want the pigment to go. Once the watercolor is dry, peel the rubber cement or masking tape from the page. You’ll see the paper underneath. This is a great solution for preserving white paper among the rest of your painting.
5. When applied to watercolor paper, salt will soak up some of the color and create a sandy-looking effect on the page. Begin by laying down a wash that’s “juicy”—you want to have some extra pigment on the paper. After you’ve painted the color, spread the salt on top of it. Once the painting is completely dry (it’s best to wait overnight), scrape the salt from the page.
6. Watercolor paint and rubbing alcohol are akin to oil and water. Once you paint a wash, take a utensil (like a q-tip) and dab alcohol onto the wet surface. It will create an alluring effect that’s reminiscent of tie-dye.